I’ve started my next project, which is to design and print myself custom shoes. I’m gonna start with something simple: pool shoes.

Pool shoes are typically designed to be close-fitting and put as little material around the foot as possible. So they’re ideal to iterate through the design of my shoes to find the perfect fit without wasting too much filament. And I need a new pair anyway…

I ordered a bunch of TPU with different Shore hardness and the rolls have arrived. So now I’m designing the shoes.

I have no experience with TPU, but a colleague at work does: he told me he tried to print a remote-control-like flexible sheet of rubber buttons that was 2mm thick, and the sheet readily delaminated when he pulled on it.

I want my pool shoes to be as thin as possible - apart at the front where I need protection. So bearing in mind what my colleague told me, I opted for a wall thickness of 2.5mm. Do you think this is enough?

As for supports, the printer I use at the moment only has one extruder head (it’s not mine) so I’ll have to print them out of TPU too. Is there a good strategy to limit the amount of material used and maintain structural integrity on such a large print? I’m thinking of drawing the supports myself inside the shoes to control exactly where they will be and limit wastage.

  • HumanPenguin@feddit.ukEnglish
    13·
    16 days ago

    Just to confirm. Hygroscopic does not mean the material is unsuitable for wet conditions as a finished product.

    Your comment suggested that was your assumption.

    The issue is that FDM (and all plastic 3d printing) depends on the molecular bods reforming as plastic is melted and reshaped. Almost all physical materials absorb moisture from the air. But some more than others. Highly hygroscopic materials when melted below glass transition temps. The moisture within the molecular bonds dramatically affects the materials’ ability to rejoin and reform those strong bonds. This results in some very odd effects on the final product, making effective production impossible.

    The general rule is heat (30 to 90c depending on material) and time is needed to remove the absorbed water before printing. As for how long. Well for every 5c below the perfect temp for your material, the time doubles. This time starts at 4 to 12 hours depending on the material. (data is online) So yeah the time can become days if not using the perfect temp.

    I am currently struggling with this myself with ASA. As its my first time trying it. (im new to all this).

    • ExtremeDullard@lemmy.sdf.orgOPEnglish
      5·
      16 days ago

      for every 5c below the perfect temp for your material, the time doubles

      Great info, that!

      We always keep the dryer at 45C (not sure why, we just do…) I just looked it up and it looks like 65C for 8 hours is a minimum for TPU. So unless my colleague left the spool of TPU in it over the weekend - which I doubt - it would not have been enough. Unless he took the spool right out of the vacuum-sealed bag with the silicagel packet in it. I don’t know. I’ll ask him.

      • HumanPenguin@feddit.ukEnglish
        5·
        16 days ago

        I am rapidly discovering. That spools do not seem to arrive dry.

        Also, desiccant will not dry a spool. It keeps the air dry and will prevent a dry spool becoming wet. With ASA, I am learning you always need to dehydrate before first use. But am hoping using desiccant and vacuum bags will limit the time needed when reusing an open spool.

      • bigredgiraffe@lemmy.worldEnglish
        3·
        15 days ago

        Just to add what others have said, the temp you dry at is as important if not more important than time and different for each type of plastic. If you don’t have it hot enough (typically near the glass transition temperature of the plastic) then the moisture is not able to escape the plastic.

        Cool project as well, I have wanted to do the same!