I think I’ve given a cursory look at those a year or two ago. The main things I remember are that they are SMALL, and at least one model lacked a heated bed. The heated bed helps immensely with adhesion (will your print stick or just get dislodged, failing the job?) and the size is a practical constraint. For example resin printers can do exceptional quality items, but they’re going to be small. Pick a measuring tape of any kind, go measure a thing you’d like to make like maybe a pen holder or whatever you actually think you will want to print. I had a Monoprice Mini Select and it was a 12cm base, good for a lot, small for a lot. That thing can do a 10cm base. A quick visualization is that you will not squeeze a phone cover in that space!

Yes, but your laptop is not liking the software, and now you are running it in a browser too. Unless the service offered by the container is remote control, then it’s not going to be of any help for you. Difference between running a HTML5 game in your browser, or GeForce Now: one runs locally, the other is just a video feed.

I don’t have any experience here, but everything seems to point towards the docker being just a way to install it for any machine, for ease of management, not a streaming/remote control situation where the software runs on the server, and you just see/interact with the video output. So probably the slowdown is caused by your laptop liking FreeCad even less once it’s running in your web browser.

Obviously I can be way off, but this is what it looks to me.

Yeah, but we seem to like hampering the right to manifest, so I’m sure it’ll get thrown in the mix.

There’s a little nuance here, the kid was dumb enough to bring one of those to school, so some worry is warranted… some. Now as you can imagine this is going to have consequences, but as we do have functional gun control laws, it’ll be something inane. Probably won’t impact 3D printing at all is the upside.

What about a partially cleaned blob… of PP… that also went inside the sock?

So, fun issue those things can have: my Sovol SV07 Plus has one and it works great… or it did until the filament chewed through the plastic and made very awkward channels in and out of it. In itself no big deal, still goes through the sensor, but the issue is that it can be a bit too tight of a fit and get jammed. Like, HARD so you have to try pulling it both ways before it dislodges. It’s not a fun way for a print to fail. My workaround is to use a tiny bit of ptfe tube at the entrance, hot glued there so the filament will go straight. So far it’s been working.

Happy cake day!

I mean, the question was about importing settings, PEEK or PLA wouldn’t make a substantial difference in “there’s a menu a little out of sight this way, you also need to do this and that in Cura” and, given how Cura was the top dog for the last few years, one would think that the new hotness would have a way to easily get people to switch. I don’t know how challenging that is from a technical perspective, but evidently it’s enough to not make it worth it to the developers… anyway I copied the speed settings, saved the profile as “0.18 decent” and since I was there, connected Klipper too. Ready for testing.

That aside, wanting to find the simple way is different from lack of experience. I think I got that between putting together the aforementioned Ender 3, replacing the board with a SKR 3, and contextually adding a BLTouch, something that required editing and recompiling Marlin ;)

There IS a profile for my specific printer, it just feels made by a competing company as (not hyperbole) whatever they did make it slower than a first gen Ender 3. Tuning materials I don’t mind, but at least a working starting point?

When I got my current printer I considered a Mini… thankfully it was too bulky to replace the MonoPrice Select Mini, and I ended up replacing that and the Ender 3 with a Sovol SV07 Plus. Looks like it was a lucky choice!

As an extra to all that’s being said so far, a food safe material doesn’t mean it has a food safe pigment in it. To be honest, if all you’re going to put into the prints are packaged items (say the tea bags) then meh, not much of a big deal IMO.

You might have some polypropylene there. Really strong material! Won’t stick to shit, temperature resistant, chemical resistant, can bend without breaking… never tried it, personally but it’s interesting stuff.

Sounds like TPU? Maybe soft one too.

Thanks, I think I get it. There’s a lot of humidity where I live too, so while not at the same scale, the problems are at least relatable. Best of luck with the project, it sounds like a cool but lengthy and complex journey that can really pay off!

Oh! The “brassic” guy! I don’t have much help to offer, but I didn’t know that term, had to look it up and found the tv show :D so thank you.

A tiny bit of potential help: you mention wanting to use desiccant in the boat. I’m obviously not an expert, but it sounds like a bad idea, as the stuff absorbs water… but maybe you mean in small amounts, so that wouldn’t make a difference.

I’m thinking it looks like the print gets to a spot where it can get faster, and your hot end can’t keep up with the temperature required by that filament, causing under extrusion. If my guess is correct, it would show on a small test print (same settings) where you get looooong straight lines to allow for speed. And would disappear by slowing down. Since it looks like a relatively expensive filament I suggest you wait for more feedback before trying my test, just in case I got it wrong and my test would waste some filament for nothing.

LIDAR sucks, accuracy wise. If you want accuracy, and hate yourself, then you need an iPhone XR/XS because that was the generation with the most accurate FaceID (for whatever reason). Or go photogrammetry, the LIDAR can help but isn’t the main thing there… this is both free and great. With a Mac you can get the data processed faster, or it can be done (paid) via cloud, or with less accuracy and a bit of patience, on device. It’s not going to be a professional solution, but depending on the task it works and chances are the hardware is already there :)

SV07 then? It’s pretty full optional, but I believe they didn’t open source the whole thing.

You might want to double check this, but as far as I remember both the Sovol SV06 and SV08 are open source. The SV06 sounds in line with your desired budget, IF I remember correctly the open source thing. And as others have said, Cura, Prusa slicer and Orca are open source and cross platform.

A bit hard to tell, as every printer is different, but try a small test file at let’s say 100 mm/s? I use Cura (really, really dislike the Slic3r/Prusa Slicer/Orca interface) and here it’s called “Print Speed”. Changing that will lower the others in the same way, can’t imagine it works differently in Prusa Slicer.