Not to ask the dumb question, but if your main pain point is tap why not just swap tap for cartographer or even klicky? Klicky, combined with Klipper Z Calibration has been pretty reliable on my build and gives me a very consistent first layer.
Haha, that’s one approach. Be sure to pour the hot water all around the door frame itself is often frozen shut too.
Corvettes, going back to at least the C6 generation (2005ish) have electronic handles, but they have mechanical emergency pulls on the floor next to the door sill. Yes, messing with them will set off the car alarm if the doors are locked. Ask me how I know.
I have no idea why anyone where it freezes would want electronic handles, especially ones that electronically self-present. I’ve had to yeet my frozen shit door open on more than occasion.
Nope! That’s part of the fun sadly. At least if you’re technical you’ll know that not all type-c cables are the same.
Display port over USB-C is totally a thing. With things like USB-PD USB seem to be getting dangerously close to becoming the standard for everything. The cables are a wreck though and are way too hard for a layperson to tell apart.
I’ve seen that a ton with injection molded plastic, but I don’t know if I’ve ever seen that happen on a printed part before. My prints usually break before deforming enough to get discolored.
Good to hear! The only PETG problem I ever had problems with was an opaque white. Evidently it takes a decent amount of additives to get it to be both opaque and white, which can impact printability.
Sorry to hear that. The only thing that comes to mind is potentially print speed. Your first layer is probably pretty slow. Are your subsequent layers much faster?
Did it look more solid or did print quality basically remain the same?
How can you tell it’s under extruded?
IMO this is the same as any other hobby. Print enough and you’re likely to run into under extrusion at some point. Similarly, I can tell if doughs and batters needs more liquid or more flower by look and touch thanks to making a ton of pizza crusts and pancakes.
If there’s some clear sign of under extrusion it might be useful for my reference doc I use when trying to troubleshoot failed prints.
The first photo in the album looks like ‘classic’ under extrusion. The layer lines are largely intact, but way less material that is necessary for a solid print is present. The print has better and worse areas, which usually indicates a clog. Combine this with the fact that PETG will clog if you use too much retraction and a user that’s new to PETG and retraction seems like a good place to start troubleshooting.
As for helping your guide, simplify3d hasn’t been a ‘cool’ slicer in quite some time but they have a decent print quality guide that names a bunch of failure modes. Ellis’ print tuning guide is the best one I’ve come across.
PETG isn’t very tolerant of too much retraction. Given your fine first layer I suspect you’re developing a clog as the print goes on, which would result in under extrusion. Turning retraction completely off will make it very easy to rule out as a possibility.
You’re severely under-extruding. This may sound weird, but try a warmer temp tower without any extrusion. You might be developing a clog mid print.
I’m not an Apple fanboy, but arm based processors seem to be working out fairly well for them.
I own an Lenovo Yoga Slim 7x, which was one of the OG snapdragon x laptops released a (two?) and a half year(s) ago. It took a while for folks to get Linux to run on them and there’s enough of a barrier to entry that it’s still not very common. Most of the initial hurdles were due to Qualcomm bootloader shenanigans.
I’m not going to try to dissuade you from getting a 3D scanner, but for functional prints a pair of calipers, some radius gauges, and a profile gauge will you really far. Once you get some reps in with CAD it also won’t take you long to model your designs. CAD is a great skill to learn and as you do this again and again you’ll start modifying your designs to make them easier to print.
Very nice! Welcome to the joys of designing and making functional parts. I suggest doing two things:
Way back when there was an American filament company that sold… very reasonably priced filament that actually printed well. As they got more popular they couldn’t keep up with demand and it seemed like they started cutting corners. This resulted in their filament not having a consistent diameter as well as the occasional foreign object in the filament (a bit of charred plastic?), which lead to jams for many of us. They ultimately went out of business due to their reputation of struggling to fill orders and inconsistent quality.
If you still have the chunk of filament you cut off and also have some calipers I suggest measuring the end that you were trying to feed into your extruder. You could have had a physical clog, especially if your extruder was clicking.
Fellow Voron builder. I agree that getting reps in on other things made the build a lot easier. I found the mechanical portion of the build very straightforward thanks to things like flat pack furniture and Legos - it’s basically being able to follow well documented spacial instructions. Wiring wasn’t particularly difficult, but I’ve crimped things and built wiring harnesses before. The thing I was the most apprehensive about was getting the pi running and the initial tune, but everything is so well documented even that was pretty straightforward.
The Voron build is absolutely long, but it’s surprisingly approachable and well thought out. I guess that’s why there hasn’t been a revision in a while.
Same, but I do have some level of worry regarding portability. My solution isn’t local or self hosted, as I was looking for easy and works across Linux/Windows/Mac/Android/iOS. I do not look forward to needing to change to a new password manager in the future, but given the way everything seems to be going it seems likely that I’ll have to at some point.
A quick search turned up an “official” CNC mount for cartographer and stealth burner. There are also instructions covering another mount, but I didn’t spend much time looking at them.
If you’re comfortable with CAD it shouldn’t be hard to model a mount that uses the klicky attachment points on the stock SB carriage. I found an existing model that looks like it does exactly this.