Kebabs sound really good.

He bought successful companies and fucked them over.

Every company that has remained successful after he got involved did so by keeping him the fuck away.

So no. He’s not a successful businessman, he’s not an engineer either.

He’s a venture capitalist, and not even a very good one.

I wonder if we can get grok to delete itself.

i;ve never used pressurized vapor baths, for anything. I’d certainly stay away from pressurized vapor baths using heated solvents that are also rather flammable (that’s… got some exciting possibilities that I would let my worst enemy do first.) I’d use picture glass (or cheap ikea mirrors.) to build up a box. set it up outside where the vapors aren’t a problem.

alternatively, a cheap-ass-fuck stock pot with a glass lid will also work fine, but don’t seal it… and certainly don’t use it for food when you’re done.

as for if it should boil, it’s boinling point is about 80 deg. C, so if you’re seeing boiling, you either have somewhat impure MEK (which is fine,) or your temp measurement is off. It should still put enough vapor into the box that you can see it working though… it’ll just work faster. its less advised to boil it off because, well. it works too fast usually.

please tell me you’re doing all of this outside or with a ginormous fume hood that goes outside. (seriously, MEK is not to be underestimated.)

For what it’s worth, if you have a pressure vessel and you want to make it go differently, reducing the pressure will have better effect (or so I’m told.)

I’ve not used MEK personally, all of my petg parts are structural. What I’m seeing online says 60-80c.

What I’d do is kick it up by 5c at a time.

swap in failed test prints and see how that changes things. Keep in mind if you stay in the cold range and give it more time, it might create a better finish.

Too hot and it’ll start melting.

Maybe also “priming” the chamber with a heat gun so the air is also warm. (Do this before placing the MEK!)

Also, a small hole someplace that’ll get covered and a toothpick to lift the part will help retain its shape.

Hey, FEEBS! I’m an activist. come get me brodawg.

I’m at your mom’s house. She’s really upset with you.

a MEK vapor bath would likely give you a smooth finish. But, Uhm, personally the raw print is probably preferable as MEK is some nasty shit. (not so nasty you can’t buy it at your local big box hardware store, but it’s not something you can just pour into a kitchen pot and be safe around.)

it would work similar to an acetone vapor bath for ABS.

and sometimes, they still are used appropriately, and still end up with a ruined life.

if the other side has fuck-you money and you don’t have fuck-you money, guess what their strategy is going to be?

You did just help, though.

Ironic.

It isn’t even necessarily a question of who’d win.

You can tell the absolute truth and technically “win” all the defamation lawsuits you want, and still lose.

Gov Walz and Mayor Frey have both been quiet alarmed about the goons since they showed up.

They’re also perfectly capable of multitasking so it’s fine.

It looks doctored to me.

For one thing they made physical contact which we know didn’t happen. For another, it’s 47 seconds long.

Also, from what I saw she was complying with the commands to clear the road.

Not that brownshirts would realize why that’s a stupid game to play.

I’d okay with that. As long as it’s still technically a planet. (what? it’s my favorite!)

Pluto is a dwarf planet, which is still a planet.

Also, they absolutely should have just made an exception for Pluto so science teachers everywhere could have used that as a fun teaching point.

Very few printers are going to be able to do 90 degree overhangs even close to nicely. Bridging? Sure. With significant overhangs, it’s always going to wiggle a bit until you get some more layers.

If OP weren’t using this to get as close as possible, I’d say the answer was organic supports coming in from the bed.

Try Changing the width and Hight of the First Layer to smaller Values, no clue Why, but it Fixed this kinda issue before for me!

reducing the width of the first layer seems counter intuitive to me. usually adhession is improved by using widths wider than the nozzle since the plastic has to get smooshiefied into the surface. I don’t know there’s much difference on the first layer 125%-200% of the nozzle width, but I find going over definitely helps. (I use 150% for stronger parts in general.)

or at least that’s been my experience. nozzle height/z offset would be the first thing for me to check, but PLA shouldn’t be warping that bad, IMO, so there might be some thermal issues as well.

Naw. The capital cost is going to be offloaded to taxpayers and the oil barons will get another yacht or two.

The whole point is to loot Venezuela and make bank while the taxpayers cover the expensive parts and “maintain stability”.

Fuckers.

Nobody likes a loot whore.

formerly called thule. it’s now Pituffik Space Base