A wooden toothpick is probably a bit too thick. You’d want something thin enough that it can be inserted without touching the electrical contacts. If you do have something plastic then that’s probably better, but if you do the cleaning when the device is off the USB port should be unpowered and there shouldn’t be a risk of causing a short, and modern USB ports are quite well protected again shorts anyway so it’s very unlikely to cause damage just by being conductive. You mainly want something that is long and thin enough to get all the way to the bottom of the port without having to apply any force. If the only things you have that are long and thin enough to reach the bottom of the port without having to be forced in are made of metal, then that’s still a safer option than jamming something too thick into the port that can deform the center contacts.

Grab a thin needle or piece of wire, thin enough to easily insert into the USB-C port, and scratch all of the dirt and lint out of it. Always point the needle towards the outer surface so you don’t scratch the electrical contacts in the middle.

There is often a surprising amount of junk inside even if you can’t see it from the outside, and that can greatly affect the connection quality.

My phone recently had a similar issue where it would only charge if the cable was inserted in a specific way, and any movement would cause it to stop charging. The cable also wasn’t really held well even though it looked like it was fully inserted. I cleaned out the port even though I couldn’t see anything inside, and managed to pull out a bit of dust anyway. And now my phone no longer has charging issues and holds on to the cable much better.

USB-C unfortunately just seems to have a design that makes it very easy for dust to get stuck in it, while also having a relatively low tolerance for foreign material buildup before the connection quality gets affected, making this a quite common issue.

The enshittification of Duolingo has already been going on for quite a while. It has really gone downhill in the last few years.

Depends on viewing conditions. As of yet there isn’t an objectively superior display technology.

OLEDs have the best contrast in a dark room as black pixels can be fully turned off, but they are generally less bright and use more power than comparable LCD TVs or monitors (especially when you compare models of a similar price range).

LCD based monitors and TVs can get brighter and can actually achieve a higher contrast in a well lit room as the black pixels on an LCD are less reflective than black pixels on an OLED, and when viewing in daylight the ambient light is more than enough to drown out the backlight bleed.

There are also other smaller pros and cons. OLED for example has a better pixel response time, while IPS LCDs are more colour accurate. Text rendering and other fine graphics also generally look slightly sharper on an LCD than on an OLED display (when comparing displays of equal resolution / pixel density) due to the subpixel layout.

Any guesses how long it will take for someone to use this jailbreak to get Doom to run on just the CPU?
In theory, at least some of the affected processors should have more than enough cache to run it directly from there, right?

Though I have to admit that I don’t understand CPU internals well enough to know if the microcode even has enough control over the chip to make that physically possible.

It was successfull for a while up to 10 years or so ago, when it was the main free option for video calling. But nowadays there are plenty of alternatives, pretty much all of which do a better job than Skype ever did.

Skype has now been pretty much obsolete for years so I don’t think it’s too bad that it’s ending.

The Google approach would have been to already have killed it in 2004 before it ever even had a chance to be successful.

Most electric cars are pretty much computers on wheels, and voltages, currents and temperature are constantly monitored. It totally should be possible to log battery health and diagnostic information and generate a battery health report for when the vehicle is sold. But standards would need to be put in place for that to force manufacturers to implement it and to make sure the results are actually meaningful.

Unfortunately Tesla’s specifically really don’t feel like they’re designed to last when looking at their materials choices and build quality (either that or my manager just bought a particularly bad sample, I have to admit it’s the only Tesla I ever been inside of) so I don’t think having a good reseller experience or longevity is really a part of their business model.

The battery is still a big problem when selling on the used market because there’s not really a way to see how much it has been abused, and it’s also not really feasible to replace. If the previous owner abused their battery by constantly fast charging, and always charging it to 100% and driving till the battery is completely empty, then the battery can decrease much faster.

My manager has recently bought a used Tesla model 3, and the battery had been abused so much that he only has about 150km of actual range on a full battery. With the advertised range being close to 500km and the car being only 5 years old that seems to be a lot more than 2% per year. Even if you assume that the effective range when new was only half of the advertised range, then that battery has lost nearly 40% of its capacity in 5 years.