I just received an unexpected SLA printer from what I had assumed was a failed Kickstarter for the “Coolsiga FinderOne” or C1 or Classic. The manual is clearly intended for someone who has some context, but my past experience has been entirely FDM based.

I’m not claiming it’s a good manual by any stretch of the imagination, nor am I confident that it will work – but is there an “Dummies Guide to SLA Printers” I can read through to at least know what it’s talking about?

  • EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml
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    4 months ago

    Number one priority is safety.

    SLA Resin contains chemicals that are safe if handled appropriately and a serious health risk when no precautions are taken.

    First of all apply the common rules for chemicals like separate workspace, no food and drink around it, minimizing exposure as best as possible, and not working with them if the available material/workspace is unsafe.

    Resin in particular has two noteworthy exposure paths: 1.) Vapors -> well-ventilated space. Ideally a fume hood. This will be the largest challenge and might be the biggest investment. One option is to work outside and only go near it as little as possible. Not great but good enough to achieve a low exposure. 2.) Skin contact -> safety googles, long clothes, closed footwear and gloves. Keep in mind that a glove is only spillage protection and up to 1.5 gloves in a 100 box can be damaged! Use tools to handle the uncured resin parts.

    Due to the hassle of working safely with it, I have quit SLA 3D-printing and use online services for it (eg. JLC3DP).

    How to print?

    Experience. That simple. Try, fail, and repeat.

    Watch a video on how to setup the printer. Print the exposure test pattern. Go from there.

    For a booklet take a look at the Prusa SL1 guide and post/ask if you encounter a specific issue (writing everything down that is to SLA printing would take hours): https://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_sl1_en.pdf

    • Nighed@sffa.community
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      3 months ago

      I believe SLA parts also require drain holes for the resin on the inside of the part to drain out through?