Look at the fuse block we inherited, almost every single fuse was bumped up to a 30 amp.
Okay, that’s also highly concerning, but it doesn’t make what you’ve done any better.
I trust my rigup more than the overrated 30 amp fuse that was in there. At least the function of a flasher module is to break the circuit.
You really don’t seem to be understanding the issue that one of these bare, unprotected contacts is connected directly to the battery without going through the flasher. If grounded metal touches that contact, you have a dead short, and there’s nothing the flasher module can do about it. Power doesn’t have to flow through the flasher at all to complete that circuit.
Police and ICE agents have tasers that deliver like 30KV or so, so you know what, I’ll take my success with this ~12 volt rigup.
Yeah … I’m starting to doubt your earlier ‘aware of how electricity works’ comment. The voltage isn’t an issue here. The problem in a dead short circuit is uncontrolled amperage. A short circuit with no load would pull the full available amperage of your battery (several hundred amps) through a blinker circuit with thin wires rated for a maximum of 15 amps. Wires will melt if this thing shorts … and whether those melted wires start a fire or not is mostly just down to luck.
If I ever do find the OG flasher module, well I’ll just replace that and drop in a proper 15 amp fuse where my rigup is currently installed.
Well, if that’s what it takes for you to fix this fire hazard, I hope you find it.
Until then, please just add some electrical tape (and maybe an inline fuse) like everybody in this entire thread is telling you to do. If you’re going to DIY electrical stuff, please use a bit of proper safety. Insulation and fuse protection is very basic stuff. It’s not expensive or difficult, either – I don’t know why you’re so against doing it.
There is literally absolutely no metal anywhere even remotely near the contacts. Up, down, left, right, front and back, everything around is plastic, which is an insulator.
You’d deliberately have to try to short it out with a 2 foot long screwdriver plus activate the flasher arm at the same time for anything bad to happen.
And by the way, I never use electrical tape, I use heatshrink/thermalfit tubing. Would it please you if I put some heatshrink over the yellow connectors?
Honestly though, I ain’t the least bit worried about it, it works fine and has nothing anywhere nearby to short out with. Plus, with the fuse panel cover put back on, it can’t even move, so that’s not a worry either.
Okay, that’s also highly concerning, but it doesn’t make what you’ve done any better.
You really don’t seem to be understanding the issue that one of these bare, unprotected contacts is connected directly to the battery without going through the flasher. If grounded metal touches that contact, you have a dead short, and there’s nothing the flasher module can do about it. Power doesn’t have to flow through the flasher at all to complete that circuit.
Yeah … I’m starting to doubt your earlier ‘aware of how electricity works’ comment. The voltage isn’t an issue here. The problem in a dead short circuit is uncontrolled amperage. A short circuit with no load would pull the full available amperage of your battery (several hundred amps) through a blinker circuit with thin wires rated for a maximum of 15 amps. Wires will melt if this thing shorts … and whether those melted wires start a fire or not is mostly just down to luck.
Well, if that’s what it takes for you to fix this fire hazard, I hope you find it.
Until then, please just add some electrical tape (and maybe an inline fuse) like everybody in this entire thread is telling you to do. If you’re going to DIY electrical stuff, please use a bit of proper safety. Insulation and fuse protection is very basic stuff. It’s not expensive or difficult, either – I don’t know why you’re so against doing it.
There is literally absolutely no metal anywhere even remotely near the contacts. Up, down, left, right, front and back, everything around is plastic, which is an insulator.
You’d deliberately have to try to short it out with a 2 foot long screwdriver plus activate the flasher arm at the same time for anything bad to happen.
And by the way, I never use electrical tape, I use heatshrink/thermalfit tubing. Would it please you if I put some heatshrink over the yellow connectors?
Honestly though, I ain’t the least bit worried about it, it works fine and has nothing anywhere nearby to short out with. Plus, with the fuse panel cover put back on, it can’t even move, so that’s not a worry either.
Yeah, that would also be acceptable.